Hey everyone. Today we're talking about one little habit I will not do anymore, and that's sewing over pins.
I know why it tempts you. I do. You're in a rhythm. The seam is lined up. The pins are holding everything just right. Pulling each pin out feels like it slows you down. So you think, I'll just sew right over them. Folks, I've thought that exact thought. Just like that, you talk yourself into it.
Here's the story. I was sewing a seam on good fabric. Not scrap. Good fabric I did not want to waste. I left the pins in and kept my foot on the pedal. Then I heard it. Clink. Then a thunk. The needle hit a pin dead on.
The needle bent first. Then it snapped. The seam jumped sideways. I had skipped stitches for about two inches before I even stopped. My throat plate had a fresh scratch on it too. That little scratch can snag delicate fabric later, by the way. Oh my goodness, I was not happy with myself.
And that was a lucky day. I mean it. A needle strike can do a lot worse than that.
It can break a needle into pieces. A piece can fly up. It can scratch your throat plate. It can leave a burr that shreds thread. It can knock the timing off on some machines. Then your stitches skip. Your loops show underneath. And now a five-second shortcut turns into a repair visit. We're not reinventing the wheel here. Metal does not sew through metal.
Even a graze counts. You might only nick the pin. You might think you got away with it. But that needle tip is now bent or dull. Run it anyway and you get pulled threads. You get skipped stitches at 8 to 10 stitches per inch where it matters most. Change the needle after any strike. Every single time. A size 80/12 or 90/14 needle costs very little. A timing repair costs a whole lot more.
What I do instead
First, I pull pins as I come to them. Sew up to about an inch before the pin. Stop with the needle down. Pull the pin out. Then sew on. Needle down holds your place. You lose maybe two seconds a pin. That's it.
Second, I pin smarter. I pin perpendicular to the seam line. The pin head sits to the right, outside the seam. That makes it easy to grab. Or I keep the pin fully outside the seam line in the seam allowance. A standard 5/8-inch seam allowance gives you room. Use it.
Third, I use clips where clips make sense. Wonder clips hold layers without any metal in the stitch path. They are really really good on thick layers. They are great on vinyl and leather too, where pins leave holes. Completely up to you which ones you like best.
Fourth, I baste the tricky spots. A zipper area. A matched plaid. Easing in a sleeve cap. A few hand basting stitches hold it better than pins. They sew over soft thread just fine. Then you pull the basting out after. Here we go. No drama. No clink.
Slow down near the end of a seam too. That is where pins bunch up. That is where most strikes happen. Take your time, it's not a race. It doesn't have to be perfect. You're your own worst critic on this stuff. I promise, nobody times your pin pulling.
If I can do this, y'all can do it. Stop. Pull the pin. Sew on. Just like that.
Don't take my word for it — watch this:
I've Repaired Sewing Machines for 44 Years — These 9 Everyday Habits KILL Them Faster Than Age — on YouTube (watch for the part on sewing right over the pins).
Shop the Wonder Clips 50ct at Linda's Electric Quilters.
Thanks for hanging out with me today, folks. Keep those pins out of the needle path, and your machine will thank you. We'll see you next time. Bye.
— Corey, Chief Quilter, Linda's Electric Quilters
