Hey everyone. Today we're talking pins, and why I wouldn't use the wrong pins for leather or knits.
It seems like a tiny choice. I get it.
Pins are pins, right? You grab what's in the cushion.
You pin your pieces. You start sewing.
Except leather and knits don't forgive that shortcut. Not one bit.
Why the wrong pin tempts us
A regular dressmaker pin feels universal. It works on cotton.
It works on most wovens. So we assume it works everywhere.
Here's the problem, folks. Leather has no weave to close back up.
Every hole you poke stays a hole. Forever.
Knit is the opposite problem. Knit is loops, not a tight weave.
A sharp, thick pin can cut a loop. Or snag it.
That tiny snag can turn into a run. Later, after washing, when you least expect it.
Two different fabrics. Same lesson.
The pin has to match the fabric. Just like your needle does.
How I learned this one
I watched this happen on a leather project first. Simple pieces. Clean cutting.
We pinned the seam like it was cotton. Quick and easy.
Then we took the pins out. And we saw them.
Little dotted lines right beside the seam. Every pin left its mark.
You cannot press that away. You cannot steam it away.
It is not in the seam allowance either, if you pinned a little wide. It shows.
Oh my goodness, that was a sick feeling. Good material, marked before we even stitched.
Then I saw the knit version. A jersey top, pinned with regular sharp pins.
It looked fine at the table. Really really fine.
After a wash or two, tiny holes showed up near the seams. The pins had nicked the yarns.
The fabric did the rest. It opened those nicks up.
That was it for me. I am the joke here, not you.
I learned to slow down for thirty seconds. And choose the holder first.
What I do instead
Here we go. This is simple.
1. For leather and vinyl, use no pins at all. Use clips instead. Clip right on the edge, inside that 5/8-inch seam allowance area.
Space clips about 2 to 3 inches apart. Closer on a curve.
Binder clips work in a pinch. Paper clips will do too. My preference is a proper sewing clip, because it sits flat under the foot.
2. Use tape only in the seam allowance. A narrow strip of double-sided wash-away tape holds leather beautifully. Keep it off the stitch line so it does not gum up your needle.
3. For knits, switch to ballpoint pins. A ballpoint pin has a rounded tip. It slides between the loops instead of piercing them.
Look for fine ballpoint or glass-head pins made for knits and delicates. Fine matters on light jersey.
Pin in the seam allowance when you can. And pin gently, without stretching the knit as you go.
4. Test on a scrap corner first. Always. Pin your scrap. Pull the pin out. Stretch the scrap a little.
Look close in good light. If you see a hole or a snag, that pin is wrong for that fabric.
That ten-second test saves the whole project. Just like that.
5. Keep your pins sorted. I keep leather clips in one spot. Ballpoint pins in another.
Label them if you need to. When everything lives in one cushion, grabbing wrong is just too easy.
You have options here, y'all. Clips, tape, or the right pin.
All three can be right. It depends on your fabric and your project. Completely up to you.
And listen. It does not have to be perfect.
You are your own worst critic. Take your time. It's not a race.
If I can do this, y'all can do it. We're not reinventing the wheel here.
We're just not poking holes we cannot take back.
Don't take my word for it — watch this:
Watch How to Sew Leather - Tips and Tricks from Melly Sews on YouTube — she is clear as can be: don't pin leather, use sewing clips instead.
Shop the Wonder Clips 50ct at Linda's Electric Quilters.
Thanks so much for sewing along with me today.
We'll see you next time. Bye.
— Corey, Chief Quilter, Linda's Electric Quilters
