Sew-In vs. Fusible: When to Choose Sew-In Fleece
Most interfacing you reach for comes with an iron-on adhesive — but what do you do when the iron itself is the problem? Some fabrics can't take heat, some projects need true loft rather than crisp structure, and sometimes you simply want a soft, padded layer that stays flexible. That is exactly when a sew-in fleece like Pellon® 988 earns its place in your sewing room.
What it is and what it is best for
Pellon 988 Sew-In Fleece is a sew-in (non-fusible) interfacing made of 100% polyester. Unlike fusible interfacing, it has no adhesive coating at all — you attach it with stitches instead of heat. Its job is to add full, lofty body to fabric, giving your project a soft, padded feel rather than stiff structure.
It is sold on a 45-inch by 10-yard bolt in white, which gives you plenty of yardage for larger padded projects. Reach for it for quilted apparel such as jackets, vests, and coats, where you want warmth and body with a soft drape. On the craft side, it is a natural fit for padded tote bags, zipper pouches, placemats, oven mitts, and wall hangings — anywhere you want that quilted, cushioned look and feel.
How to use it
Using sew-in fleece is straightforward because there is no fusing step. Cut the fleece along with your fabric pieces, usually the same size or just a hair smaller so it hides neatly inside the seam allowances. Pin or baste the fleece to the wrong side of your fabric and treat the two as a single layer while you construct the project.
For a quilted look, mark your quilting lines on the fashion fabric, layer it over the fleece, and stitch through both layers — the quilting itself is what holds the fleece permanently in place. In lined projects like bags or jackets, simply enclose the fleece between the outer fabric and the lining; it gets caught in the seams and stays put without any extra stitching. Stitching decorative channels or grid patterns through the layers is another classic way to anchor it while adding texture.
Tips and care
Because there is no fusible adhesive, sew-in fleece is the safe choice for fabrics that can't be pressed — synthetics that would melt, textured fabrics that would be crushed flat by an iron, or anything heat-sensitive. It also sidesteps the bubbling and peeling that can happen with a fusible bond, and there is no adhesive to gum up your needle.
A few practical notes: trim the fleece out of bulky seam allowances on heavy projects to reduce bulk, and grade your seams where layers pile up. Since the fleece is 100% polyester, it won't shrink, so your fashion fabric's own prewashing routine is the only shrinkage to manage. Finished projects can be laundered as the outer fabric requires — the fleece simply travels along for the ride.
Shop the Pellon® 988 Sew-In Fleece 45" x 10 yards Bolt. Color: White. at Linda's Electric Quilters.
