Hey everyone! Today you will learn how to turn one pack of ready-cut strips into a fast Jelly Roll Race Quilt full of color.
Here we go.
First, let's look at this fabric
This is Dry Brush Chroma - 40 Karat Gems.
It comes from Wilmington Prints.
The collection is Dry Brush Chroma.
These are vibrant tonal fabrics.
Each strip has a dry-brush effect.
It adds depth and dimension as you sew.
And this pack gives you a spectrum.
A stunning spectrum of vivid shades.
That range does a lot of work for you.
You get 76 fabric strips in one pack.
Each strip measures about 2 1/2" by 44".
That is plenty for a generous quilt.
Just like that, your cutting is done.
You open the pack and you can sew.
The project: a Jelly Roll Race Quilt
We are making a Jelly Roll Race Quilt.
You join every strip end to end.
Then you fold and sew, fold and sew.
It finishes about 64" wide by 84" long.
Why does this fabric suit this race?
The strips are already cut 2 1/2" wide.
The tonal shades blend as they race.
A bright strip lands next to a deep one.
Oh my goodness, that pop is instant.
The dry-brush texture keeps simple seams interesting.
Even straight rows look really really good.
Super duper fun, and super duper easy.
Materials list
- 1 pack Dry Brush Chroma - 40 Karat Gems — 76 strips, 2 1/2" by 44" each, for the quilt top
- Batting — one piece about 70" by 90"
- Backing fabric — about 5 yards of 44"/45" fabric, pieced, or a wideback trimmed to about 70" by 90"
- Binding — 5/8 yard, cut into 2 1/2" strips, joined to about 310" total
- Thread for piecing — I like 50-weight cotton in a soft neutral
- Thread for quilting — 50-weight to match or contrast, completely up to you
- A size 80/12 needle for piecing
- Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat for trimming
- Pins or clips, plus basting pins or spray
For piecing, I set my stitch length to 2.5.
That is about 10 to 12 stitches per inch.
Use a steady 1/4" seam throughout.
Brief steps
Step 1: Sort loosely, then let go. Lay out your 76 strips. Spread lights, mediums, and darks through the stack so one color does not clump. Then stop fussing. The race is meant to surprise you.
Step 2: Join the long strip. Sew all the strips end to end with diagonal seams. Trim the joins and press. You will have one very long strip, well over 3,000" before folding.
Step 3: Make the first fold. Cut about 18" off one end. That keeps the joins from lining up. Bring the ends together, right sides together, and sew the long edge. Cut the fold loop open at the end.
Step 4: Keep folding and sewing. Repeat the fold, sew, and cut move. Two rows become four, then eight, sixteen, and thirty-two. Press as you go. Square up near 64" by 84", trimming the final length to suit.
Step 5: Layer and baste. Lay the backing wrong side up. Center the batting, then the top right side up. Baste every 4 to 6 inches so nothing shifts.
Step 6: Quilt it simply. Start in the center and work out. Try stitch in the ditch, then echo about 1/2" from a seam. Or try a gentle meander. I lean to stitch in the ditch here, so the shades stay the stars.
Step 7: Bind and finish. Trim the quilt square. Sew your 2 1/2" binding around with a 1/4" seam. Miter the corners, join the ends, and finish by machine or by hand.
Practical tips from my table
Slow down on those long seams, y'all.
Here is your warning, right at the risk.
Let that long strip twist and it fights you.
Rush and pull it, and the rows wave.
I once let my first race strip pile up.
The fix was easy, though.
I stopped, flattened it out, and started slow.
Just like that, the next seam laid flat.
Press after every fold, not just at the end.
And remember the permission beat here.
It does not have to be perfect.
You are your own worst critic.
The joins will land where they land.
That is the charm of a race quilt.
Take your time, it is not a real race.
If I can do this, y'all can do it.
We're not reinventing the wheel here.
Alrighty. Thanks for spending time with me today.
We'll see you next time. Bye.
Shop the Dry Brush Chroma - 40 Karat Gems at Linda's Electric Quilters.
