Hey everyone. Today you will learn how to stabilize knit jersey so it quilts just like cotton.
Here is the problem, y'all. A game jersey is built to stretch. That is great on the field. It is not great in a quilt block. The fabric moves under your needle. Seams pucker. Blocks come out wavy.
The fix is simple. Fuse interfacing to the back of the jersey first. The interfacing stops the stretch. Now that slinky knit handles like a quilting cotton. You can cut it square. You can sew it straight. Just like that, a jersey sports quilt becomes totally doable.
Picking the right stabilizer weight
This part matters, folks. Match the weight to the jersey in your hands.
- Lightweight fusible tricot is my pick for most team jerseys and T-shirts. It is soft, it keeps some drape, and the finished quilt still feels like a quilt.
- Mediumweight fusible helps when a jersey is thin, shiny, or extra stretchy. Mesh practice jerseys often land here.
- Heavyweight fusible stabilizer is for the wild ones. Think very slinky, very stretchy game jerseys that pull in every direction. The heavier weight gives you the most control. The block will feel firmer, so save it for quilts that need that structure.
Not sure? Fuse a small test corner first. If the jersey still stretches, go one weight up. If it feels like cardboard, go one weight down. Completely up to you.
Materials
- Clean jerseys, washed and fully dry, with no fabric softener
- Fusible tricot interfacing, or a heavier fusible stabilizer for very stretchy jerseys
- Rotary cutter, mat, and a square ruler, 12 1/2 inches is handy
- Iron and ironing board, plus a press cloth
- Sharp scissors for rough-cutting around logos and numbers
- Pins or clips, and cotton fabric for sashing, if you like
- Your regular batting and backing, for the finished quilt
How to make it
- Prep the jersey. Wash and dry it first. Skip the fabric softener. Softener can keep fusible interfacing from bonding well. Give the jersey a light press so it lays flat.
- Rough-cut the panel. Cut the front or back panel away from the sleeves and seams. Leave at least 1 inch of extra fabric all around your final block size. You will trim it square later.
- Cut the interfacing. Cut your fusible interfacing the same rough size as the panel. On tricot, check the stretch direction. You want the interfacing's least stretchy direction running opposite the jersey's stretchiest direction. That is what locks the movement down.
- Fuse it in sections. Lay the jersey wrong side up. Place the interfacing glue side down on the back. Cover with a press cloth. Press, do not slide the iron. Lift and press, section by section, about 10 to 15 seconds per spot on a medium setting. Sliding can shift the knit and make wrinkles. Slow down here, folks.
- Let it cool flat. Leave the panel flat until it is fully cool. Moving it warm can loosen the bond. Take your time. It's not a race.
- Trim to size. Now trim your stabilized panel to your exact block size, like 12 1/2 inches square. Center the number or logo before you cut. This is the fun part. Oh my goodness, it cuts like cotton now.
- Sew the blocks. Sew with a walking foot if you have one. Use a 2.5 to 3.0 mm stitch length and a 1/4 inch seam. An 80/12 universal needle works well on stabilized jersey. Press seams toward the sashing or to one side.
- Build your sandwich. Layer backing, batting, and your jersey top. Quilt as you like. Stitch in the ditch around the blocks is a clean choice. A gentle meander works too. Avoid quilting right through thick printed numbers if you can travel around them.
Tips and variations
Admit time. I have fused a panel with a wrinkle in it. We all have. Here is the fix. Lift one corner gently while it is still a little warm, smooth it, and press again. Small wrinkle, easy save.
It does not have to be perfect. A number sitting a hair off center gives the quilt character. You're your own worst critic here. The player who wore that jersey will just see the memories.
Mix jersey blocks with cotton sashing and cornerstones. The cotton frames the knits and adds strength. You can also mix in T-shirts from school or camp. Stabilize every knit the same way, and they will play nicely together.
If I can do this, y'all can do it. We're not reinventing the wheel here. We are just taking the stretch out, one press at a time.
Thanks for sewing along with me. We'll see you next time. Bye.
Shop T-Shirt Project Fusible Interfacing 60in x 72in at Linda's Electric Quilters.
