Tailor's Elite 855F vs HC120F fusible hair canvas: which for a jacket?

Hair canvas is the traditional, firmer tailoring interfacing with natural fibers and a springy hand; it is the choice for structured, classic suit and coat fronts. Tailor's Elite is a lighter, softer polyester non-woven that gives controlled shaping with more drape and is easier to fuse. Use hair canvas for heavy coatings and sharp tailoring, Tailor's Elite for softer jackets, linen, poplin and knits.

Tailor's Elite vs ShirTailor 950F: what is the difference?

ShirTailor is a firm, crisp non-woven for shirt collars, cuffs and plackets in light to mid-weight shirtings. Tailor's Elite is for medium to heavy jacket and coat fabrics and gives supple support rather than crispness. For a shirt, use ShirTailor; for a blazer or coat, Tailor's Elite.

Black or white Tailor's Elite?

White is for light and mid-tone fabrics. Under navy, charcoal or black suitings, white interfacing can show as a pale line at seam allowances and pocket openings, so use the black bolt there. Both bolts are otherwise identical.

How does it compare to a woven fusible like Classic Fuse?

A woven fusible drapes exactly like fabric and is the choice when you want the interfacing to move with a soft wool or silk. Tailor's Elite is a stitch-reinforced non-woven: a little more body for the weight, no grain to match, and less expensive per yard. For most ready-to-wear style jackets the non-woven is more than enough; for couture tailoring in fine wools a woven fusible is worth the cost.

Which side is fusible and how do I apply it?

The side with the adhesive dots goes against the wrong side of the fabric. Cover with a press cloth and press with a lift-and-set motion, letting each section cool before moving on. Pellon does not state an iron temperature on this bolt, so fuse a test swatch of your fashion fabric first; wool and synthetic suede in particular need a trial.

Can I use Tailor's Elite on knits?

Yes. Pellon lists double knit among the recommended fabrics. The stitch reinforcement controls stretch in the lengthwise direction, which is what you want in a knit jacket front or facing. For stretch you need to keep, use a knit interfacing such as Easy-Knit instead.

Pellon® 855F Tailor's Elite™ Interfacing 20" x 10 yards Bolt. Color: White. Pellon

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Pellon® 855F Tailor's Elite™ Interfacing 20" x 10 yards Bolt. Color: White.

Name: Pellon® 855F Tailor's Elite™ Interfacing 20" x 10 yards Bolt. Color: White.
Brand: Pellon
SKU: PDS-855F-2010BOLT
Price: 36.84 USD
Availability: InStock

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SKU: PDS-855F-2010BOLT

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$36.84 $66.99

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Pellon 855F Tailor's Elite is a high-performance fusible from Pellon's family of luxury fusibles, made for tailored garments where you want controlled support and shaping without a stiff, papery hand. It is a stitch-reinforced, fusible non-woven for medium to heavy woven and knit fabrics: gabardine, poplin, linen, fine-wale corduroy, synthetic suede, double knit, wool and wool blends. Use it in suit fronts, coat fronts, collars, lapels and facings. The white bolt is right under light and mid-tone suitings; for dark fabrics use the black.

The stitch reinforcement gives it a lengthwise stability that plain non-wovens lack, so fronts and lapels keep their shape through wear and dry cleaning while the fabric still rolls and drapes. It is 100% polyester and one-sided fusible. The 20" x 10 yard bolt will interface several jackets or coats. Also stocked in black.

Specifications

Type	Non-woven, stitch-reinforced fusible interfacing
Weight	Medium to heavy
Fusible	Yes, one side
Width x length	20" x 10 yards (bolt)
Color	White
Fiber content	100% Polyester
Best for	Tailored jackets, suits and coats in medium to heavy wovens and knits: gabardine, poplin, linen, corduroy, synthetic suede, double knit, wool
Also available as	855F Tailor's Elite in black · HC120F fusible hair canvas · 950F ShirTailor for shirts
SKU	PDS-855F-2010BOLT

Tailor's Elite 855F vs HC120F fusible hair canvas: which for a jacket?: Hair canvas is the traditional, firmer tailoring interfacing with natural fibers and a springy hand; it is the choice for structured, classic suit and coat fronts. Tailor's Elite is a lighter, softer polyester non-woven that gives controlled shaping with more drape and is easier to fuse. Use hair canvas for heavy coatings and sharp tailoring, Tailor's Elite for softer jackets, linen, poplin and knits. Pellon HC120F Fusible Hair Canvas 21" x 10 yd
Tailor's Elite vs ShirTailor 950F: what is the difference?: ShirTailor is a firm, crisp non-woven for shirt collars, cuffs and plackets in light to mid-weight shirtings. Tailor's Elite is for medium to heavy jacket and coat fabrics and gives supple support rather than crispness. For a shirt, use ShirTailor; for a blazer or coat, Tailor's Elite. Pellon 950F ShirTailor 20" x 10 yd
Black or white Tailor's Elite?: White is for light and mid-tone fabrics. Under navy, charcoal or black suitings, white interfacing can show as a pale line at seam allowances and pocket openings, so use the black bolt there. Both bolts are otherwise identical. 855F Tailor's Elite in black
How does it compare to a woven fusible like Classic Fuse?: A woven fusible drapes exactly like fabric and is the choice when you want the interfacing to move with a soft wool or silk. Tailor's Elite is a stitch-reinforced non-woven: a little more body for the weight, no grain to match, and less expensive per yard. For most ready-to-wear style jackets the non-woven is more than enough; for couture tailoring in fine wools a woven fusible is worth the cost. Classic Fuse Woven Interfacing 2 yd x 59"
Which side is fusible and how do I apply it?: The side with the adhesive dots goes against the wrong side of the fabric. Cover with a press cloth and press with a lift-and-set motion, letting each section cool before moving on. Pellon does not state an iron temperature on this bolt, so fuse a test swatch of your fashion fabric first; wool and synthetic suede in particular need a trial.
Can I use Tailor's Elite on knits?: Yes. Pellon lists double knit among the recommended fabrics. The stitch reinforcement controls stretch in the lengthwise direction, which is what you want in a knit jacket front or facing. For stretch you need to keep, use a knit interfacing such as Easy-Knit instead.