Apparel Fabric School

Line rayon challis only where opacity, how the garment moves, or a clean interior calls for it, and interface only the small areas a pattern names for support.

To press rayon challis without marking its finish, follow the fabric's care instructions first, start with your iron's lowest heat, and test on a scrap or a hidden seam allowance before the…

For rayon challis, start with a fresh Microtex (sharp) needle in 70/10 and a standard all-purpose polyester thread, and shorten your stitch length to about 2.0–2.2 mm.

Cut rayon challis in a single layer, on grain, and fully supported: wash and rest the fabric first, lay it flat so no part hangs off the table, line each pattern grainline up parallel to the…

Prepare rayon challis before you cut it, in this order: test a measured swatch first, then wash and dry the whole cut exactly the way you will wash the finished garment, then let it rest, press it…

Choose rayon challis in this order: weight first, opacity second, season third.

On chiffon and georgette, the finishes that work are a narrow French seam, a 2- or 3-thread serged rolled hem, and a machine narrow (rolled) hem; wide turned hems pucker and show through.

Chiffon is the lighter, smoother and more transparent of the two: it suits overlays, sheer sleeves, ruffles and floaty skirts, usually over a lining.

Rayon challis frays readily and its seams can slip under stress, so the reliable finishes are French seams on straight seams, a 3- or 4-thread serged finish where a serger is available, and a…

Rayon challis is a lightweight, plain-weave rayon with a fluid drape and a matte, slightly crepe-like hand.